It's an unassuming little room, at the end of the Dublin Road. That is, until you are greeted by the Hostess and when there's a hostess you immediately regret sticking on an old pair of jeans. It's of no concern for the staff though, and we're whisked upstairs into the restaurant's spacious, and sumptuously lit loft area. Like an iceberg, there's more to Souls than meets the eye.
There's big, spacious tables, an open kitchen (where we're close enough to enjoy the action, as well as seeing what's sent out, which is always helpful in a new establishment) and tons of bright and friendly staff. Nothing's too much bother here and everything you might need soon arrives with the minimum of fuss. There's a new cocktail list on offer, with some great looking standards, but the local beer is calling us, and a bottle of the Northbound IPA does the trick nicely.
The menu is a million miles from what we expect - and in a good way. It's not your standard Indian restaurant. What we have here is classic bistro cuisine, but with a new twist - the tandoor oven comes to the fore here. Never mind the glory grills that can cost the same as a four door saloon, this simple and glorious device can, with the aid of an experienced chef, provide a hearty char that would put a Josper to shame.
And we have a great chef to hand. We're starting off with scallops and black pudding. So far, so standard. Except in this case we're pleased to see a delicately spiced carrot puree as the accompaniment. Fragrant, yet not overpowering, it's perfect with the solid, sweet scallop. The crab cake is a joy, with fresh meat and fluffy potato, and the house's own picked vegetables that are liberally spread throughout the meal.
The main course sees a tandoori paneer, just one of Souls' imaginative vegetarian options. There's a wonderful smoky texture to the proffered cheese dish and it's serves with a Kachumbari salad - a little detour to Africa on our plate. Topped off with a side of naan, it's a great dish, one with a bit of thought in it.
The tandoori monkfish is a revelation. There's a light green paste marinade and curried Lyonnaise potato, with the sort of heat that builds and builds, tempered with the papaya chutney. Crispy fish balls round off the dish and while we've ordered chips, the portions are substantial enough to go unaccompanied.
A sticky toffee pudding is ordered, with the requisite two spoons, when only one is required (sorry), and the meal is topped by a perfectly formed espresso cup.
We were made to feel welcome from the very start, which in an environment as competitive as the Dublin Road is a massive plus. Even as the night went on and the restaurant filled, we weren't hurried or imposed on in any way. It's a special occasion place with the friendly service of a local café, and one we'll definitely return to.
Shane Horan
Souls Restaurant can be found at 89 Dublin Road, Belfast, and is open everyday 12 to 22:00 (20:30 on Sundays). For more information, to see their menu and to make a reservation go to soulsrestaurant.co.uk
