Review: Kathmandu Kitchen

Sometimes you stumble on a place and you want it to be a closely guarded secret - there's few things more frustrating than finding your perfect little hidey hole, somewhere intimate where you and those closest to you, the people you've let into the secret, can eat in peace and quiet. Then it's a bit busier, but that's ok. Then you can't get a table for love nor money. And it's probably full of gluten dodgers or, shudder, tourists.

On the other hand there comes a time when blatant evangelism is the only way forward. More so than any other cuisine, people find 'their' curry house and stick to it, order the same thing and are very happy about that. Sometimes going to another restaurant can feel a bit like a betrayal, but tonight we are glad we darkened the door of Botanic's Kathmandu Kitchen.

As the name suggests, it's a Nepalese joint, as opposed to the plethora of very good Indian restaurants we have here in Northern Ireland. The differences are subtle and summed up by the opening dish, a steaming plate of Momo. The momo is a Nepalese dumpling, and has much in common with the Chinese jiaozi, except instead of the usual pork and soy based fillings, it's packed full of a delicious curry - there's a kick off these hand crimped, glutinous treats, tempered by an orange sauce than later makes a reappearance as the base for our vegetarian option tonight.

The Asian restaurant is often the last refuge of the vegetarian, for a variety of cultural and religious reasons, so we're not surprised to find some nicely thought out options that deviate from the norm. Of course, we have all the staples of sub-continent cuisine at hand, so if you want a Bhuna, or Dansak they're here, but tonight we're hitting the Nepalese menu. The special curry is ordered with veg, while a lamb Saag Masu Ra and the usual Naan and Mushroom rice to round things out.

We're asked how hot we want our meals, both opting for a medium spice, which tells us that our meals are prepared to order, unlike some less scrupulous restaurants where the chef prepares a massive pot of gravy during the day, adding the specific ingredients as they're ordered. This is why sometimes your friend's meal tastes the same as yours, even if you went for a Patia, while they had a Jalfrezi. The veg is crunchy and well picked, and smothered in more of that tangy sauce that set the Momo off a treat.

The Saag is a delight, with enough spice to lift the spinach out of the doldrums and complementing the diced, slowly cooked lamb perfectly. There's one of those slow burns that gradually builds up until you've a bit of a sweat on. The mushroom rice cools that fire admirably, and fresh, piping hot naan completes the meal admirably. Portions are not for the mild-hearted either, both of us able to bring enough home for a decent lunch.

We're also pleasantly surprised to find 'proper' Asian desserts on offer, and opt for the kulfi, a homemade cardamom flavoured ice-cream which rounds everything off nicely. What's been a fantastic meal is made a proper experience by our attentive waiting staff, who's warmth and welcome left us feeling very well looked after, thank you very much. With a veritable mountain of food conquered we leave happy.

Just go to Kathmandu Kitchen. Why? Because it is there. And if it's not the best curry-house Belfast has to offer then it's very high up there.

Shane Horan

Kathmandu Kitchen can be found on Botanic Avenue, Belfast. Open 17:00 to 23:00 Monday to Saturday, with lunchtime opening of 12:00 to 14:00 on Friday and Saturday, and 14:00 to 22:00 on Sundays. kathmandukitchen.co.uk.

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